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There’s an increasing skepticism these days towards traditional wine critics, the folks whose names, initials, and 100-point-system scores adorn foil stickers on countless wine bottles. The case of Polish-born winemaker, Paul Lato, though, tells us that these critics can have remarkably positive impacts on the lives of some of wine’s most promising upstarts. In 2002, Paul Lato made his first six barrels of wine and was fortunate enough to meet the wine critic Robert Parker, who after tasting those wines told Paul he had tremendous talent. Now some 20 years later, Paul Lato’s “Matinee,” his Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, demonstrates the elegance of Santa Barbara Pinot with an unmistakable Lato thumbprint. Excellent on its own or with food, this is a perfect entry-point into Lato’s wines.